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Kurakuen

Kurakuen

Kurakuen, alias la Beverly Hills del Kansai, è uno dei luoghi migliori per vedere gli alberi di ciliegio in fiore all’inizio di aprile, ma questa non è la sola attrazione in questa bella regione e aprile non è il solo momento dell’anno in cui andarci. Situato nelle colline di Rokko Mountain, è in una posizione strategica tra Kobe e Osaka, cioè 20 minuti in treno da entrambi. Il nome Kurakuen è scritto con i caratteri cinesi di “amaro”, “felice” e “parco” e quindi evoca immagini di una terra che assicura una vita dolce e amara tra giardini verdeggianti. Nella zona non c’è più molta terra che non sia stata sfruttata perché costruttori audaci hanno fatto l’impossibile costruendo case verso la cima dei versanti, ma e’ rimasta comunque la sensazione di spazio. Storicamente Kurakuen e la sua area circostante erano un ritiro e un posto di divertimento per i ricchi della regione Kansai e molti vi avevano le loro ville. Era un paesaggio di natura selvatica, con ruscelli di montagna, cascate, sorgenti d’acqua calda e bordelli. La stazione più vicina a Kurauen è Kurakuen-guchi sulla linea Hankyu; se arrivate nel pomeriggio di un giorno di sole, potete scendere alla fermata Hankyu Shukugawa e camminare lungo il fiume, controcorrente, attraverso il parco Shukugawa.

 

Non dimenticate di alzare lo sguardo per ammirare gli insoliti pini di gomma dei quali il parco è popolato: con la loro forma strana e contorta, molti di loro si inclinano in un modo singolare per formare figure insolite- si può camminarci sopra come su di una rampa. Ci sono molti posti in cui i bambini possono giocare e molta gente porta tappetini e mobili da giardino per fare un picnic tutto il pomeriggio e fino alla sera. A volte, gruppi musicali scelgono questo posto per esercitarsi e ci sono un sacco di studenti universitari che strimpellano la chitarra e gli anziani che giocano a “gateball” (un gioco tipo croquet). Prima o poi, camminando lungo il fiume, vedrete Kabuto-yama, un vulcano estinto a forma di cupola, e alla fine raggiungerete Kurakuen.

 

Gli appassionanti di trekking possono decidere di fare un’escursione lungo il fiume, dopo Kurakuen e sulle colline. Dopo 30 minuti di arrampicata e seguendo una strada piena di traffico arriverete a Kitayama Orti Botanici (0978-72-9387) dove potrete entrare gratuitamente. Li potrete passare un pomeriggio esplorando sentieri, serre, stagni, rocce che si inerpicano sui precipizi, l’arco cinese della città gemella Xiaoxing in Cina e sentieri più alti che vi porterano alla diga di Kitayama e il bacino idrico che vi darà una bella vista di Kabuto-yama stessa. Se fate un’escursione fino ai piedi del Kabuto-yama potrete ammirare ulteriori meraviglie, compreso l’impressionante tempio di Kanno-ji con il suo sentiero di 88 Budda, oltre a un grande parco che vi offrirà splendidi panorami di Osaka.

Uno dei siti più interessanti a Kurakuen è il sacrario di Koshiki-iwa che è situato nelle colline a 15 minuti in salita dalla fermata Kurakuen-guichi a Hankyu. Il sacrario e i suoi giardini ospitano spesso sagre e manifestazioni della comunità con spettacoli di diverso tipo, dal flamenco al canto di Okinawa. Tutte le domeniche, al pomeriggio, un piccolo gruppo di appassionanti di sumo (giapponesi e stranieri), nessuno dei quali pesa più di 80 kili, si incontra nel ring davanti al sacrario per lottare- tutti sono benvenuti (date un’occhiata alla pagina sul sumo su questo sito per maggiori dettagli). Il sacrario prende il nome da una grande pietra sacra situata dietro di esso che sembra una grande botte in cui si prepara il riso, o koshiki.

 

I ristoranti e i locali notturni offrono molto – se la scena sembra tranquilla, sicuramente la varietà disponibile ricompenserà i visitatori. La maggior parte dei negozi si allineano lungo la strada centrale che va in salita dalla stazione Kurakuen-guchi. Forse le strade sembrano tranquille, ma parecchi negozi sono affollati e in estate, di notte, la vita si riversa fuori nelle strade. Yellowjackets, dove c’e’ sempre una folla di giovani, è un luogo per musica dal vivo, mentre Who’s Who Bar è un sunaku (Martini bar) senza coperto per i posti al bar e, con soli 500 yen a bevanda sarà un modo economico di far finta di essere James Bond. Rude Bar è un locale notturno economico e amichevole con interni caldi in legno dove sedersi al bar comodamente e guardare la giovane folla o, ancora meglio, buttarsi nella mischia. Wheelers è un nuovo bar gestito da gaijin (stranieri), popolare tra gli studenti universitari locali. È stato costrutto dentro un tram rinnovato con un grande terrazzo davanti, offre cibo alla griglia ed ospita spesso delle attività interessanti come concerti musicali e, ogni tanto, strampalati spettacoli di mostri. Ci sono cinque buoni ristoranti di sushi che sono, in ordine crescente di prezzo e qualità: Amimoto Sushi (abbastanza buono), Kame-zushi, Otowa Sushi, Daiten Sushi, e Fuka sushi. Coyote Cafe è un po’ lontano, ma se volete hot dog e cibo americano più americano di John Wayne e torta di mele, dovete mettere alla prova questa vivace locale, molto popolare tra i giovani e che attira orde di studenti la sera tardi (presumibilmente vengono per gli hamburger e “la birra al peperoncino”). Attenti ai neon, alle riviste di moto e al rock and roll a volume altissimo. Per finire, dulcis in fundo, c’è il segreto meglio custodito di Kurakuen, il bar di meduse sottoterra, che si chiama Moon Jelly. Il segreto è cosi ben custodito che non voglio rivelare il suo posto segreto (i residenti locali ci passano davanti spesso senza sapere che cosa c’è dentro) ma se siete curiosi chiedete in giro e lo troverete!

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